By Caleb McClain
Fine timepieces have always been status symbols. The age-old question of which watch best projects success to colleagues, friends, clients, and women remains unsettled. Don’t believe me? Just look at any Field Ethos Sunday Q&A; they’re full of men asking that very question. Heck, even the Godfathers of old were trying to figure it out.
Hollywood gave us a clear picture of what a mobster should look like: a custom-tailored pinstripe suit, wing tips, and, of course, a gold Rolex like the 18K Day-Date President worn by James Gandolfini in “The Sopranos.” And why wouldn’t every goodfella wear a Rolex? They’re the ultimate status symbol, something every owner understands the moment they first strap one on.
But the reality is a little more complex than that.
Lucky Luciano’s Patek
Charles “Lucky” Luciano was the definition of an OG. As a main visionary behind the National Crime Syndicate and leader of what became the Genovese Family, he helped organize La Cosa Nostra into the powerhouse we came to know.
Luciano’s most famous timepiece was a solid-gold Patek Philippe Ref. 1516, made in the late 1940s after his deportation to Italy. In 1957, he gifted the watch to Joseph Bonanno, head of the Bonanno Family until a 1968 power struggle forced his retirement. The Patek sold at auction in 2009 for $9,000 and later served as collateral in a 2017 deal valued at $20,000—a steal for any Patek.
Bugsy Siegel’s Bulova
Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel, a Brooklyn-born contemporary, was a close ally of Luciano. Being of Jewish descent, he was never an official member of the Italian-American Mafia. Still, he played a key role in founding the National Crime Syndicate and its hit squad, Murder Inc. In the 1930s, Siegel moved to Hollywood to develop rackets and later helped transform a sleepy desert outpost into what became Las Vegas.
At the end of his life, Bugsy’s go-to watch was an 18K gold Bulova Clinton, likely manufactured in the 1940s. Yes, you heard that right—a gangster wearing a Bulova. While it might not sound like a power move today, it made sense. Siegel would have acquired the watch while living in California, and Bulova was headquartered back in Queens, so it probably served as a reminder of home. The square-cased watch was elegant and refined, yet flashy enough for the lifestyle he helped make famous. Today, Siegel’s Bulova rests in Las Vegas’s Mob Museum.
Capone’s Collection
Al Capone needs no introduction. A childhood friend of Siegel, he followed his boss Johnny Torrio to Chicago before seizing power for himself. With ruthless use of his Chicago typewriter, Capone turned a bootlegging gang into the feared Chicago Outfit.
Capone seemingly owned as many watches as he did guns. Among the most notable was his 1937 Rolex Prince Ref. 3140, an understated rectangular gold watch on a leather strap, later reintroduced in 2005 as part of the Cellini line.
He was also fond of pocket watches. One platinum Patek Philippe pocket watch, made in 1919 and featuring the initials “AC” in diamonds, sold for $230,000 in 2021. Another, a triangular piece by the Illinois Watch Company also bearing his initials in diamonds, fetched $84,000 in 2017.
The Dapper Don’s Piaget Ultra-Thin
John Gotti was the last celebrity gangster. He began his criminal career at 12 and rose quickly. After a 1976 prison release, he was inducted into the Gambino Family. In 1985, he orchestrated the hit on boss Paul Castellano and became the new leader. He held the position until his death in 2002, though his final decade was spent behind bars.
Living up to his nickname “The Dapper Don,” Gotti owned watches from several luxury makers, including a Piaget Ultra-Thin Ref. 9765. Its white-gold case, diamond-set bezel, and onyx-black dial were worn to ensure he was the best-dressed in the courtroom. The watch remains in family hands, though it was lent to John Travolta for the 2018 film “Gotti.”
The Best Watch
So which watch is best? Who cares. Wear what you like. Be flashy like Capone with an iced-out Patek or keep it sentimental like Bugsy with a nod to your roots. Own a hundred—or none. The only opinion that matters is yours.
