By Andrew Court
A decoy bird splashes from the surface of the dark water and a diver slips out of the harbor. The dry suit comes off revealing a perfectly pressed white dinner jacket.
Walking to the bar 007 casually checks his Rolex, fastened with a military-looking nylon strap, to countdown the seconds to an explosion. He coolly looks up and grabs a cocktail.
Bond’s first stop post-detonation is a woman’s room as she is mid-bath. The bathing beauty isn’t all that she seems and, in what would become a cliche for the franchise, her story line ends there.
Let’s talk about the least interesting thing in that entire opening: his watch strap. Today we call it a NATO, and it has become an image that launched a thousand influencers.
The film Goldfinger was ahead of its time, in both fashion and technology. Bond’s Aston Martin DB5 had a screen in the dash that would look at home in a modern Toyota. Goldfinger, the villain, had very progressive ideas about laser weapons as well as monetary policy. We see James wearing a Zulu, the nylon strap in question, which the British military upgraded to become the NATO.
The story of the NATO strap begins in 1973, when the British Ministry of Defence rolled out the G10 strap. It was designed to be tough, reliable, and easy to swap out in the field. The name “NATO” came later, a nod to the NATO Stock Number system used for uniformly identifying military supplies by all NATO member states.
What exactly is a NATO strap? Its signature one-piece design slides under the watch, ensuring security even if a spring bar gives way. This design is not just functional but also adds a distinct, rugged look. They’re easy to change out, so you can update your fashion without having to go to the jeweler.
Most NATO straps are crafted from nylon, prized for its durability and resistance to the elements. Leather variants exist, but nylon remains the go-to for its robust performance. I purchased one in Alligator, but that is getting a little too fancy, missing the more utilitarian point. I like it, but I also get my shirts monogrammed.
The original NATO came in admiralty gray for the British Navy, but as they grew in popularity with militaries around the world the color palate expanded. Different regiments ordered them with their own distinct stripes. To make a long story short, you are well within your rights to go crazy with strap color and are not confined to black or gray.
Some watch aficionados just don’t get it. They can’t understand why you would put a $15 strap on a $10,000 Rolex. They also don’t get why you would invest the effort to give your Casio flair. For them, a Patek dress watch should be on black leather, or nothing at all.
They are, as my mother would say, sticks in the mud.
Watchmakers get it. Brands like Omega and Blancpain have introduced high end versions of these straps to their catalog, even making them standard on some models. The fit and finish on OEM NATOs is excellent, but I’m not sure that it’s enough to justify spending hundreds of dollars on a bit of nylon.
You might also be tempted to believe the NATO is a bit played out. Watch fashion influencers have indeed had their way with the iconic strap, wearing them in increasingly heterodox combinations. Stores like JCrew have even put them by the register, as an impulse purchase for office workers buying a crew neck sweater.
I will go out and say that I love NATOs. Personally I find bracelets uncomfortable and leather too delicate, so this provides the perfect sporty alternative. It also lets you easily update watches you might have gotten tired of. The camo NATO on my Panerai has given the piece a new lease on life. They are cheap and easy, and you will get compliments on them.
They also lend a little bit of military credibility. Wearing a NATO strap says you are down for action. The only problem is now you have to live up to that reputation.
